|本期目录/Table of Contents|

[1]张蓓蓓a,束霞平b. 元代服饰面料织造中的尚金之俗[J].丝绸,2012,49(12):000065-71.
 ZHANG Bei-bei,SHU Xia-ping. Gold fashion in apparel fabric weaving in Yuan dynasty[J].Journal of Silk,2012,49(12):000065-71.
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《丝绸》[ISSN:1001-7003/CN:33-1122/TS]

卷:
49
期数:
2012年12期
页码:
000065-71
栏目:
历史与文化
出版日期:
2012-12-10

文章信息/Info

Title:
 Gold fashion in apparel fabric weaving in Yuan dynasty
文章编号:
1001-7003(2012)12-0065-07
作者:
 张蓓蓓a束霞平b
 苏州大学 a. 应用技术学院,江苏 苏州 215000;b.艺术学院,江苏 苏州 215123
Author(s):
 ZHANG Bei-bei1 SHU Xia-ping2
 1.Applied Technology College, Soochow University, Suzhou 215000, China; 2.Art School, Soochow University, Suzhou 215123, China
关键词:
 元代服饰面料织金
Keywords:
 Yuan dynasty Apparel fabric Gold weaving
分类号:
K892.23;TS941.12
doi:
-
文献标志码:
B
摘要:
    元代宫廷尚金之俗直接推动了中国织金技术的发展,使得元代的中国织金技术达到了鼎盛时期。采用以文献资料为主、图像和实物资料的借鉴为辅的方法,分析了元代宫廷尚金之俗兴起的缘由,梳理了元代织金锦与纳石失发展脉络,认为元代尚金主要源自于金人用金风气习惯的承袭、游牧民族对贵金属特殊的爱好与追求,以及蒙古民族的文化传统,并使得元代织金锦形成了鲜明的时代特征,成为中西、南北交流的象征。进一步探讨了元代服饰织金面料的功能,表面物服饰织金面料功用织金锦的主要用途不仅仅用于帷幔、茵褥、仪仗、舆辂等,更主要是用作服饰面料方面。
Abstract:
The gold fashion in the palace in Yuan dynasty has directly promoted the development of gold weaving technology in China, making Chinese gold weaving technology in Yuan dynasty reaching a golden age. This paper analyzes the reason of emergence of gold fashion in the palace in Yuan dynasty, sets the development course of gold weaving brocade and Nasich in Yuan dynasty mainly through document literature and assisted by the reference of images and real object data, considers that the gold fashion in Yuan dynasty mainly came from the inheritance of gold using custom of Jin people, horde’s special interest in and pursuit of precious metal and cultural tradition of mongols and made gold weaving brocade in Yuan dynasty form a distinct feature of the age and become a symbol of Sino-western and north-south communication. This paper further discusses functions of apparel gold weaving fabric in Yuan dynasty. Functional gold weaving brocade of surface apparel gold weaving fabric is not only used for purdah, cotton-padded mattress, flags, weapons, etc. carried by a guard of honor and vehicles etc., but more used as apparel fabric.

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备注/Memo

备注/Memo:
 收稿日期:2012-04-28;
修回日期:2012-10-30
基金项目:中国博士后特别基金项目(2012T50488);江苏省高校社科项目(2012SJB760035);江苏省高校优势学科艺术学建设项目(苏政办发[2011]6号)
作者简介:张蓓蓓(1982― ),女,博士,苏州大学艺术学院博士后,研究方向为服饰艺术史及服饰文化。通讯作者:束霞平,副教授,苏州大学教育学院博士后,shuxiaping@suda.edu.cn
更新日期/Last Update: 2012-12-25